🚩 Upper Dolpo Circuit: The Last Enclave of the Bon

Phoksundo • Shey Gompa • Saldang • Dho Tarap

Journey into the "Hidden Land" of Dolpo, a high-altitude desert of mystic monasteries, snow leopards, and ancient caravans. This is not just a trek; it is an expedition into a lost world.

🗺️ Trip Overview (From Dunai)

• Trek Duration: 20 – 24 Days (Dunai to Dunai).

• Difficulty: Very Strenuous. (Crosses three passes over 5,000m: Kang La, Saldang La, Jeng La).

• Max Elevation: 5,350m (Kang La / Nagdalo La).

• Accommodation: Camping is mandatory for high passes. Basic Homestays/Teahouses available in villages.

• Restricted Area: Yes (High Cost).

📋 The Permit "Math" (2026 Rates)

Upper Dolpo is one of Nepal's most expensive trekking regions.

1. Upper Dolpo Restricted Area Permit: $500 USD per person (Valid for 10 Days).

   • Note: You will likely spend 11-12 days inside the restricted zone (Ringmo to Dho Tarap). Extra days cost $50 USD per day.

2. Lower Dolpo Permit: $20 USD (For the transit from Juphal to Ringmo).

3. Shey Phoksundo National Park: NPR 3,000.

4. Minimum Group Size: 2 Foreigners (Mandatory). Solo trekking is illegal.

🏕️ Accommodation Strategy: "The Hybrid Trek"

You cannot do this trek purely as a teahouse trek like Everest.

• Zone A (Comfort): Dunai, Chhepka, Ringmo (Phoksundo), Dho Tarap. Good teahouses available.

• Zone B (Primitive): Shey Gompa, Saldang, Namgung. Basic local homestays (mud floors, local food only).

• Zone C (Wilderness): High Camps (Lar Tsa, Snowfields, Jeng La Phedi). NO LODGES. You must carry tents and food for these 3-4 nights.

• Recommendation: Run this as a Full Camping Trek for comfort, or hire a "Camping Support Guide" who carries a tent and stove for the high pass nights only.

🗓️ Detailed Itinerary (Dunai to Dunai)

Phase 1: The Turquoise Gateway

Day 1: Dunai (2,140m) to Chhepka (2,670m)

• Walk: 6 hrs.

• The Trail: Enter the V-shaped valley of the Suligad river. Lush forests and river crossings.

• Stay: Teahouse.

Day 2: Chhepka to Jharana Hotel (3,300m) / Ringmo

• Walk: 6–7 hrs.

• Highlight: The massive 167m Phoksundo Waterfall and your first view of the lake.

• Stay: Teahouse in Ringmo Village.

Day 3: Rest Day at Phoksundo Lake (3,600m)

• Explore: Visit Tshowa Gompa (Bon Monastery) on the lake shore. Acclimatize. Watch the water change color from silver to deep teal.

Phase 2: The Forbidden Trail (Enter Restricted Area)

The $500 Permit clock starts ticking here.

Day 4: Phoksundo to Phoksundo Khola / Lar Tsa (3,750m)

• Walk: 5 hrs.

• The Trail: The famous "Demon's Trail" cut into the sheer cliff above the lake. Spectacular and vertigo-inducing. Descend to the river floodplain.

• Stay: Camping (Riverbed).

Day 5: Lar Tsa to Snowfields Camp (Low Camp) (4,400m)

• Walk: 6 hrs.

• The Climb: A slow ascent up a narrow gorge. It is cold and shadowy.

• Stay: Camping (Basic shelter might be available, but don't count on it).

Day 6: Cross Kang La (5,350m) → Shey Gompa (4,340m)

• Walk: 7–8 hrs (Hardest Day).

• The Pass: A steep, dusty climb to Kang La (Nagdalo La).

• Arrival: Descend into the mystical valley of Shey Gompa. This is the spiritual heart of Dolpo.

• Stay: Camping or Monastery Guest House (Very basic).

Day 7: Rest & Exploration at Shey Gompa

• Highlight: Visit the Crystal Mountain (shelri). It is known as the younger brother of Mt. Kailash. You might spot herds of Blue Sheep or even a Snow Leopard here.

Phase 3: The High Plateau & Trade Route

Day 8: Shey to Namgung (4,360m) via Saldang La (5,100m)

• Walk: 6 hrs.

• The Trail: Cross the Saldang La pass. The landscape turns into arid, rolling Tibetan hills.

• Highlight: Namgung Gompa is built into the red cliff face.

• Stay: Homestay / Camping.

Day 9: Namgung to Saldang (3,770m)

• Walk: 3–4 hrs.

• Destination: Saldang is the largest village in Inner Dolpo. It is a major trade hub near the Tibet border.

• Culture: Experience the life of the "Drokpa" (nomads).

• Stay: Homestay.

Day 10: Day Trip to Yangze Gompa (Optional)

• If you have extra days, visit the ancient Yangze monastery to the north.

Day 11: Saldang to Sibu (4,560m)

• Walk: 6 hrs.

• The Trail: Follow the Namgung Khola south. Pass yak caravans.

• Stay: Homestay / Camping.

Day 12: Sibu to Jeng La Phedi (Tokyu High Camp) (4,900m)

• Walk: 5 hrs.

• The Trail: Gradual ascent to the foot of the last pass.

• Stay: Camping Mandatory. (High altitude, cold).

Phase 4: Return to Civilization

Day 13: Cross Jeng La (5,110m) → Tokyu (4,200m)

• Walk: 6 hrs.

• The View: Spectacular views of the Dhaulagiri massif to the south.

• Arrival: Descend into the vast, fertile Tarap Valley.

• Stay: Teahouse in Tokyu.

Day 14: Tokyu to Dho Tarap (4,040m)

• Walk: 2 hrs (Easy).

• Dho Tarap: One of the highest human settlements on earth. Explore the Bon and Buddhist gompas.

• Stay: Good Teahouse (Hot showers available!).

Day 15: Dho Tarap to Nawarpani / Serkam (3,400m)

• Walk: 6–7 hrs.

• The Trail: Descend into the narrow Tarap Khola gorge. The path is carved into cliffs.

• Stay: Teahouse.

Day 16: Nawarpani to Laisicap/Khanigaon

• Walk: 6 hrs.

• Change: The valley widens, trees reappear. You are back in Lower Dolpo.

Day 17: Khanigaon to Dunai

• Walk/Drive: 4 hrs walk or 1 hr Jeep.

• Note: The road construction has reached near Tarakot/Laisicap. You can hire a jeep to skip the dusty road walk to Dunai.

• Arrival: Celebrate in Dunai!

💰 Estimated Budget (Upper Dolpo)

Prices are high due to permits and logistics.

⚠️ Critical "Inner Dolpo" Tips

1. Food: In Upper Dolpo (Shey/Saldang), menus disappear. You eat what the family eats: usually Dal Bhat (rice/lentils), Tsampa (barley flour), and potatoes. Bring supplements (protein bars, chocolate, coffee).

2. Electricity: Zero grid power. Solar only. Bring a 20,000mAh Power Bank and a foldable solar panel if possible.

3. Satellite Phone: Ensure your guide carries a Sat-Phone. There is no mobile signal for 5-6 days of this trek.

4. The Wind: The afternoons in Upper Dolpo are incredibly windy and dusty. Bring good sunglasses and a buff/mask.

"This is the Nepal of 50 years ago." Ready to walk the path of the Snow Leopard? Contact us to organize your Upper Dolpo Expedition.